Nigel was optimistic

"Gimmi-Sagan-Om-Draken" (Gimmi)
05/05/2014 at 21:44 • Filed to: Land Rover

DISCUSSION (16)

Somethingwittyer likes noisy > Gimmi-Sagan-Om-Draken
05/05/2014 at 21:45

I really don't want to see the aftermath....

interrogator-chaplain > Somethingwittyer likes noisy
05/05/2014 at 21:52

I do, I do!

4muddyfeet - bare knuckle with an EZ30 > Gimmi-Sagan-Om-Draken
05/05/2014 at 21:57

The bloke looks pretty calm behind the wheel. All in a days work I guess.

Ramblin Rover - The Vivisector of Solihull > 4muddyfeet - bare knuckle with an EZ30
05/05/2014 at 22:14

That's a bit of an odd IIA, isn't it? Looks like MOD style bumper overriders and signal lights arrangement, but it's LHD! Foreign military purchase, perhaps. As many times as I've seen this pic, somehow I've never noticed that.

4muddyfeet - bare knuckle with an EZ30 > Ramblin Rover - The Vivisector of Solihull
05/05/2014 at 22:18

MOD grill too, with silver on black plates, GB flag and British Army roundel. Did they make LHD for British use in foreign lands?

Ramblin Rover - The Vivisector of Solihull > 4muddyfeet - bare knuckle with an EZ30
05/05/2014 at 22:22

Very possible - the Ring is also only a stone's throw from the British occupation zone. Is this perhaps an explanation for the mass adoption of Landies in Germany I've seen, a solid initial supply of LHD ex-MODs? Quite likely, and quite interesting.

4muddyfeet - bare knuckle with an EZ30 > Ramblin Rover - The Vivisector of Solihull
05/05/2014 at 22:24

I wonder how many?!

Ramblin Rover - The Vivisector of Solihull > 4muddyfeet - bare knuckle with an EZ30
05/05/2014 at 22:29

I've got a book on SII/IIa minutiae on loan from my cousin, which goes over things like lights in oppressive detail, but I don't recall a section in there detailing this. Maybe there is one: I'll have to check.

It's intensive on many things I knew bupkis about, but there are a few points it glosses over, like some things I *know* were standard equip for some model years in the US being just guessed at, a better coverage of international lights than US ones, differences in dash vent design, and seat belt bracket variation. I should probably be ashamed about one or two of those.

4muddyfeet - bare knuckle with an EZ30 > Ramblin Rover - The Vivisector of Solihull
05/05/2014 at 22:31

Don't be ashamed. It's endearing.

Ramblin Rover - The Vivisector of Solihull > 4muddyfeet - bare knuckle with an EZ30
05/05/2014 at 22:56

Just bought the tools to do round-head rivets, btw. We're taking the time re-doing my cousin's '64 IIa *right*. Fresh galvanizing on all trim, all new rubber on new frame, every part gone through.

Kinja'd!!!

4muddyfeet - bare knuckle with an EZ30 > Ramblin Rover - The Vivisector of Solihull
05/06/2014 at 16:44

I'm slowly de-constructing the SIII with a view to strip, re-paint, and re-fix most nuts and bolts. What tool do you need for the rivets? It used to have a canvas back and roll bars (which I still have), and the alu is bowing out in some places where the rivets come through the body around the steel plates. I think the previous owner has tried to paint over and into any rot, hence the odd small bulge or two!

RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht > 4muddyfeet - bare knuckle with an EZ30
05/06/2014 at 17:23

To redo round head rivets, you need an air hammer (as often as not, sold with a chisel bit as an "air chisel"), a "bucking bar" to rattle the rivets against, and a "rivet set" bit for the air hammer that keeps the head round while it drives it against the flat surface of the bucking bar. The end opposite the round head flattens and draws up. To redo pop rivets, you just need a pop rivet tool and pop rivets, which you can buy at any hardware store. The fancy stuff, you have to order from a specialty tool store (in this case, an aircraft tool supplier on amazon). Rivets either come in steel with a fixed head, or in aluminum with a "universal head" that, being ductile, can be kept round, hammered into a button while fixing, or driven into a countersink.

Landies use primarily round-head rivets, but along the top of the galvanized pieces and the like where it needs to be flat, they use pop rivets. It's not uncommon for people who've taken the bucket-top galvanizing off to replace it all with pop rivets, but that tends to spoil the look. Compare:

Kinja'd!!!

4muddyfeet - bare knuckle with an EZ30 > RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
05/06/2014 at 17:30

Yeh it's a big difference. I might just stick to duct tape and cable ties.... ;)

RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht > 4muddyfeet - bare knuckle with an EZ30
05/06/2014 at 17:40

The kit pieces aren't that expensive - say you wanted to get just a single rivet set (5 pounds or so), you had a lump of steel to use as a bucking bar already, and you were buying a cheap air chisel at the auto parts store (25-30 pounds, I'd estimate) - you could be riveting for probably under 50 pounds out the door counting rivets. It's just that it's a more highly specialized sort of work than your typical man off the street can/wants to go shopping for.

4muddyfeet - bare knuckle with an EZ30 > RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
05/06/2014 at 17:46

I would actually be really interested in using round-head rivets for work purposes too, so defo something I'll be looking into. You are a mind of useful information. I'm taking back the paint work at the moment and continuing to find bolts and fixings which aren't standard on the civvie 109's. It's one big fun (sometimes) learning curve atm

RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht > 4muddyfeet - bare knuckle with an EZ30
05/06/2014 at 17:52

Incidentally, if you ever find yourself needing to remove round-head rivets on a Landy, use a cold-chisel and hammer. The rivets are softer than the surrounding metal (galvanized steel or Birmabright), so as long as you use an oblique enough angle, scratching will be minimal. Grinding and drilling are sub-par for round-heads - though drilling is best for blind rivets.